"The last and lingering troubadour to whom the bird has sung
That once went singing southward when all the world was young
...
And he sees across a weary land a straggling road in Spain,
Up which a lean and foolish knight forever rides in vain"
G. K. Chesterton
Tuesday 2 October 2007
Santiago de Compostela
The walk into the city was in rain and through an unremarkable part of town. The cathedral however was stunning. We made it in time for the midday pilgrims mass and I just sat there trying to absorb the feeling of having finally finished the walk. It felt strangely sad to be in Santiago and no longer on the road, but also a huge relief to be able to think of something other than walking for the first time in 4 months.
Seth and i took the time to remember all of the angels we met on our route and the patient angels we left back home. So many people supported us in so many ways that it felt as if many of you were with us on the Camino. I lit a group candle for everyone and hope that others will get the chance to experience this magical walk across old Spain (am available as a bag carrier if you´re interested!).
Love to everyone at the end of this camino.
Greg xx
Seth and i took the time to remember all of the angels we met on our route and the patient angels we left back home. So many people supported us in so many ways that it felt as if many of you were with us on the Camino. I lit a group candle for everyone and hope that others will get the chance to experience this magical walk across old Spain (am available as a bag carrier if you´re interested!).
Love to everyone at the end of this camino.
Greg xx
Thursday 27 September 2007
The last 50km...
Will make this short because I am very tired and am walking 35km tomorrow morning.
Seth and I have been walking some 40km days so will make it to Santiago on Saturday morning, in time for the midday Mass. The days are colder now but beautifully clear and the walking is magical, taking us across gently rolling hills and through remote rural villages. Our destination seems to pull us like a magnet and every morning we can smell it on the breeze.
I am hugely touched by all the sponsorship and will give you all an update from the Tanzanian projects on my return.
My next post will be on Sunday with a huge smile on my face and a slightly sore head.
Love to all.
Greg x
Seth and I have been walking some 40km days so will make it to Santiago on Saturday morning, in time for the midday Mass. The days are colder now but beautifully clear and the walking is magical, taking us across gently rolling hills and through remote rural villages. Our destination seems to pull us like a magnet and every morning we can smell it on the breeze.
I am hugely touched by all the sponsorship and will give you all an update from the Tanzanian projects on my return.
My next post will be on Sunday with a huge smile on my face and a slightly sore head.
Love to all.
Greg x
Friday 21 September 2007
My heart´s in the mountains (and the last 200km)...
Having waxed lyrical about the beautiful flatness of the Meseta it began to wear thin after a few hundred kilometres. Some pilgrims resorted to Ave Marias or Buddhist mantras to get them through the monotonous landscape, I just kept my eyes on the horizon, knowing that at some point the distant haze would reveal the towering peaks of the Aquilianos mountains. In hindsight I think prayer would have been the easier option as the days dragged on and there was still no sign of them. There were however interesting diversions in the form of historic little towns and engaging pilgrims.
For example in Hospital de Orbigo a medieval knight sought to show his devotion to fair maid by wearing an iron collar to display the strength of his attachment to her. She however was less than impressed with his sartorial statement, so he decided on another tack. He invited all of the knights of Europe to joust in a tournament on the (still standing) narrow bridge leading into the town. After a two week carnival of fluttering pennants, majestic horses, glistening armour, and gored knights, our amorous nobleman finally emerged triumphant to win the hand of fair lady who begrudgingly accepted his advances. History doesn´t record whether they lived happily ever after, but I have my doubts. He sounds a bit needy and she seems high maintenance.
I also met another pilgrim who was my French doppelganger. As well as bearing a slight resemblance to me, he has been working in Palestine this year, specialises in NGO work in conflict zones and is called Gregoire. I almost asked him for a job but thought networking wasn´t a very Camino thing to do.
Anyways, the mountains duly arrived after the ancient city of Astorga. From there I climbed to over 1600m (the highest point of the Camino) and was greeted with a dawn over the Meseta that left me with a feeling of ecstasy all day. Am currently at the foot of that mountain in the small city of Ponferrada and still blissfully happy to be back in the hills for the last 200km.
Maybe part of this exuberance is the knowledge that in 9 days time i can have a celebratory glass of Rioja and an espresso in Santiago after nearly 2 months off the smokes, booze and caffeine. Am feeling ridiculously fit and wake up every morning with a terrible hangunder and a nagging feeling of purity. I know it won´t last so am determined to make the most of the last week and a half which Seth and I will be walking together from tomorrow onwards.
Thank you so much to everyone who has sponsored me, it gave me a real lift during the hard times and will go a very long way in the small Tanzanian communities that both Seth and I have worked in and know well.
Love to everyone and look forward to seeing most of you in October.
Greg x
For example in Hospital de Orbigo a medieval knight sought to show his devotion to fair maid by wearing an iron collar to display the strength of his attachment to her. She however was less than impressed with his sartorial statement, so he decided on another tack. He invited all of the knights of Europe to joust in a tournament on the (still standing) narrow bridge leading into the town. After a two week carnival of fluttering pennants, majestic horses, glistening armour, and gored knights, our amorous nobleman finally emerged triumphant to win the hand of fair lady who begrudgingly accepted his advances. History doesn´t record whether they lived happily ever after, but I have my doubts. He sounds a bit needy and she seems high maintenance.
I also met another pilgrim who was my French doppelganger. As well as bearing a slight resemblance to me, he has been working in Palestine this year, specialises in NGO work in conflict zones and is called Gregoire. I almost asked him for a job but thought networking wasn´t a very Camino thing to do.
Anyways, the mountains duly arrived after the ancient city of Astorga. From there I climbed to over 1600m (the highest point of the Camino) and was greeted with a dawn over the Meseta that left me with a feeling of ecstasy all day. Am currently at the foot of that mountain in the small city of Ponferrada and still blissfully happy to be back in the hills for the last 200km.
Maybe part of this exuberance is the knowledge that in 9 days time i can have a celebratory glass of Rioja and an espresso in Santiago after nearly 2 months off the smokes, booze and caffeine. Am feeling ridiculously fit and wake up every morning with a terrible hangunder and a nagging feeling of purity. I know it won´t last so am determined to make the most of the last week and a half which Seth and I will be walking together from tomorrow onwards.
Thank you so much to everyone who has sponsored me, it gave me a real lift during the hard times and will go a very long way in the small Tanzanian communities that both Seth and I have worked in and know well.
Love to everyone and look forward to seeing most of you in October.
Greg x
Thursday 13 September 2007
Wednesday 12 September 2007
Losing the beard and finding Jesus...
Greetings from Carrion de los Condes where we are tonight celebrating our 1000 mile mark (1600 km).
The journey from Pamplona has taken us over rugged hilly terrain, through beautiful cities such as Logroño (narrowly avoiding a massive ETA car bomb) and Burgos, and across the windswept plateau that forms the central part of the Camino.
The countryside in this part of Northern Spain resembles a sort of dream scape: vast and featureless, inviting you to project your thoughts onto the endless stubble fields. Seth and I have been walking alone for the past week to take advantage of this gentle solitude and will reunite at Leon in about a weeks time.
Many of you will be glad to know that I have finally lost the facial hair. The reason for the trip to the barbers was that it had started to feel like a furry scarf in the mid-day sun and that nesting storks were showing more than a passing interest. Seth wept openly with relief that he will now be spared the lunchtime ordeal that is watching me eat through a beard.
Lastly, I have made friends with a lovely 72 yr old man from Madrid named Jésus, whom I met in an industrial zone on the outskirts of Burgos. This is his 8th Camino in as many years and despite 2 previous heart attacks he plods relentlessly along the Way, appearing when I least expect him. In true Camino style we often meet at a time of need, with him directing me to obscure city centre Refugios and me adjusting his rucksack when he´s struggling to make it up a steep hill. Therefore, it was a momement of real warmth and joy when, 100km down the road, we found ourselves sitting next to each other for Mass in a remote Templar chapel.
Love to all.
xx
The journey from Pamplona has taken us over rugged hilly terrain, through beautiful cities such as Logroño (narrowly avoiding a massive ETA car bomb) and Burgos, and across the windswept plateau that forms the central part of the Camino.
The countryside in this part of Northern Spain resembles a sort of dream scape: vast and featureless, inviting you to project your thoughts onto the endless stubble fields. Seth and I have been walking alone for the past week to take advantage of this gentle solitude and will reunite at Leon in about a weeks time.
Many of you will be glad to know that I have finally lost the facial hair. The reason for the trip to the barbers was that it had started to feel like a furry scarf in the mid-day sun and that nesting storks were showing more than a passing interest. Seth wept openly with relief that he will now be spared the lunchtime ordeal that is watching me eat through a beard.
Lastly, I have made friends with a lovely 72 yr old man from Madrid named Jésus, whom I met in an industrial zone on the outskirts of Burgos. This is his 8th Camino in as many years and despite 2 previous heart attacks he plods relentlessly along the Way, appearing when I least expect him. In true Camino style we often meet at a time of need, with him directing me to obscure city centre Refugios and me adjusting his rucksack when he´s struggling to make it up a steep hill. Therefore, it was a momement of real warmth and joy when, 100km down the road, we found ourselves sitting next to each other for Mass in a remote Templar chapel.
Love to all.
xx
Wednesday 29 August 2007
Pamplona and the last 700km...
There just aren´t enough superlatives to do justice to the 27km, 1200m climb over the Pyrenees into Spain.
From the rapid heart-bursting 12 km ascent to 1000m giving views back over the mountains to the flatness of Le Landes, to the dehydrated joy at the ice cold waters of Fountaine de Roland by the Spanish border, from the soaring eagles and Pyrenean vultures (circling me for some reason), to the jaw-dropping 360° panorama at the Col Lepoeder with views down onto the Abbey of Roncevalles and the Spanish plains below, it was undoubtedly the highlight of the pilgrimage so far.
The Camino proper in Spain has also been a revelation. Beautiful river valley walks interspersed by historic refuges with 100 people cheek by jowl in bunk beds. Having left our tents in France we are now down to about 10kg on the back packs (from a starting weight of over 15kg) and the walking has become a real pleasure. We rise at 6am and have normally cover the days 25km by lunch, leaving us free to read and chat to fellow pilgrims in the afternoon. Blisters, back and joint pains are a thing of the past (touch wood) and if the next 700km are anything like the last 100km then the next four weeks of walking will be outstanding.
We are currently taking a day off to explore Pamplona and head off tomorrow morning towards Puente la Reina.
Love to all.
From the rapid heart-bursting 12 km ascent to 1000m giving views back over the mountains to the flatness of Le Landes, to the dehydrated joy at the ice cold waters of Fountaine de Roland by the Spanish border, from the soaring eagles and Pyrenean vultures (circling me for some reason), to the jaw-dropping 360° panorama at the Col Lepoeder with views down onto the Abbey of Roncevalles and the Spanish plains below, it was undoubtedly the highlight of the pilgrimage so far.
The Camino proper in Spain has also been a revelation. Beautiful river valley walks interspersed by historic refuges with 100 people cheek by jowl in bunk beds. Having left our tents in France we are now down to about 10kg on the back packs (from a starting weight of over 15kg) and the walking has become a real pleasure. We rise at 6am and have normally cover the days 25km by lunch, leaving us free to read and chat to fellow pilgrims in the afternoon. Blisters, back and joint pains are a thing of the past (touch wood) and if the next 700km are anything like the last 100km then the next four weeks of walking will be outstanding.
We are currently taking a day off to explore Pamplona and head off tomorrow morning towards Puente la Reina.
Love to all.
Tuesday 28 August 2007
Saturday 25 August 2007
1100km and the start of the Camino proper...
Our journey down from Arcachon was more of the same; monotonous sand dunes and pine forests. Progress was complicated by an unexpected military base which added over 50 km to our route. With spirits low and our daily total averaging 15km we decided to take the most direct path to the Pyrenees and committed ourselves to 100km of road-walking in 4 days. In the event we achieved this in just 3 days including a marathon first day of over 40km.
The result was the long awaited change in landscape with the foothills of the Pyrenees giving way to the distant high peaks. After a night at a beautiful and well-run campsite in Saint-Geours-de-Maremne (thanks Andy!), we headed down to the Benedictine Monastery of L'Abbaye de Belloc. There we spent a day with the community, sharing the exquisitely sung monastic offices and hearty hot meals with the monks. A huge thank you to Pere Marc for his kind attention to us (in particular to my confused theological ramblings in bad French), and to the community as a whole for its hospitality which nourished body and soul.
Feeling as fit as we have done on the whole pilgrimage, we set out from Hasparren joined by Mark, a friend of Seth's from London, who will be breathing fresh life into our conversations for the next week. Yesterday we walked 25km over ever increasing hills and have now finally reached St Jean-Pied-de-Port, where we join the traditional pilgrimage route from France.
For many reasons it's an overwhelming feeling reaching here. Having last visited the town as a troubled hill-walking 19 yr old, and having focused on this destination with Seth for the past couple of months, it represents a significant milestone. Additionally, being surrounded by breath-taking mountains and for the first time, other pilgrims, gives the place a sense of awe and expectation. We will set out at dawn tomorrow to walk 27km, and climb over 1000 meters, to cross into Spain at the Pass of Roncevaux. The view from the Pass, down onto the Spanish plains, is said to be outstanding, and coupled with the challenge of the terrain, makes tomorrow the most anticipated of the Camino so far.
Love to all, and if anyone has had difficulty using my 'Justgiving' sponsorship page, please try again, as it should be working now.
Greg x
The result was the long awaited change in landscape with the foothills of the Pyrenees giving way to the distant high peaks. After a night at a beautiful and well-run campsite in Saint-Geours-de-Maremne (thanks Andy!), we headed down to the Benedictine Monastery of L'Abbaye de Belloc. There we spent a day with the community, sharing the exquisitely sung monastic offices and hearty hot meals with the monks. A huge thank you to Pere Marc for his kind attention to us (in particular to my confused theological ramblings in bad French), and to the community as a whole for its hospitality which nourished body and soul.
Feeling as fit as we have done on the whole pilgrimage, we set out from Hasparren joined by Mark, a friend of Seth's from London, who will be breathing fresh life into our conversations for the next week. Yesterday we walked 25km over ever increasing hills and have now finally reached St Jean-Pied-de-Port, where we join the traditional pilgrimage route from France.
For many reasons it's an overwhelming feeling reaching here. Having last visited the town as a troubled hill-walking 19 yr old, and having focused on this destination with Seth for the past couple of months, it represents a significant milestone. Additionally, being surrounded by breath-taking mountains and for the first time, other pilgrims, gives the place a sense of awe and expectation. We will set out at dawn tomorrow to walk 27km, and climb over 1000 meters, to cross into Spain at the Pass of Roncevaux. The view from the Pass, down onto the Spanish plains, is said to be outstanding, and coupled with the challenge of the terrain, makes tomorrow the most anticipated of the Camino so far.
Love to all, and if anyone has had difficulty using my 'Justgiving' sponsorship page, please try again, as it should be working now.
Greg x
Saturday 18 August 2007
Saturday 11 August 2007
Over 800km and hurting...
We made it down to Royan in record time (4 days) but then found ourselves slowing down in the heat of the Gironde. Although we are now on a traditional Chemin de St Jaques route, which leads us due south through the pine forests, it seems harder work putting in the kiliometres now. This is partly due to the lack of differentiation in scenery, and partly because everywhere is so touristy that it feels depressing reaching another beach resort at the end of each day. Beginning to long for the Pyrenees which are only about 200km away now.
We are currently in Arcachon (further south than Bordeaux) and resting up for two days. Have bought a knee support for my left knee and Seth went to the doctor with Sciatic Nerve problems. He's been given some anti-inflammatories and thinks its already getting better. In general though we feel physically exhausted and are using our two days off to do some swimming, stretching and slobbing on the beach.
On the bright side, we managed to find free accommodation (campsites are so expensive in this region that its almost a choice of eating or camping with facilities). Out of desperation I trawled all the churches in the town for some assistance and we were eventually warmly welcomed by the Dominican Brothers who let us pitch in their garden. In addition to the soothing chants wafting from the church we also get one of the best views of the bay in town.
I miss family and friends a lot at the moment and can't wait to catch up with everyone in the autumn.
Love to all, especially Layal xx
We are currently in Arcachon (further south than Bordeaux) and resting up for two days. Have bought a knee support for my left knee and Seth went to the doctor with Sciatic Nerve problems. He's been given some anti-inflammatories and thinks its already getting better. In general though we feel physically exhausted and are using our two days off to do some swimming, stretching and slobbing on the beach.
On the bright side, we managed to find free accommodation (campsites are so expensive in this region that its almost a choice of eating or camping with facilities). Out of desperation I trawled all the churches in the town for some assistance and we were eventually warmly welcomed by the Dominican Brothers who let us pitch in their garden. In addition to the soothing chants wafting from the church we also get one of the best views of the bay in town.
I miss family and friends a lot at the moment and can't wait to catch up with everyone in the autumn.
Love to all, especially Layal xx
Saturday 28 July 2007
600km and all's well...
Keeping a gentle pace for the first week after Nantes, we passed through the marshland by Lac de Grand-Lieu where there is an infestation of freshwater lobsters (crayfish). Every stream, pond and puddle was teaming and local fishermen were having a field day. I however, was distinctly unamused when all through the night the little blighters kept on popping up under my groundsheet.
At Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu we spectacularly missed the July 14th 'Storming of the Bastille' celebrations by turning up on the 14th. Apparently the fireworks and party the night before were particularly good this year. Oh well, there's always the 15th August to look forward to.
From there we cut southeast, try to avoid larger towns like La-Roche-sur-Yon. After a few nights camping sauvage (ie not in a campsite), which is frowned on for some reason, we reached Lucon with it's impressive church spire, visable for miles across the flat marshes of the Southern Vendee.
Some 50 souless kilometers later (2 days walking) we came to a little church on the outskirts of La Rochelle which had a Salle des Pellerins and an exhibition on the Chemin de St-Jacques. This was a huge morale boost and some of the maps of the routes to Santiago were over 500 years old. Also had time for learned discussions with other pilgrims (see above).
Am setting off now for Royan (100km South) and should get there in under a week.
Love to all and a huge thanks to those of you who have sponsored my chosen charity. I have had contact with the project coordinator who says that Vocational Training Centre in Tanzania is thriving and that another is being built to widen access.
At Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu we spectacularly missed the July 14th 'Storming of the Bastille' celebrations by turning up on the 14th. Apparently the fireworks and party the night before were particularly good this year. Oh well, there's always the 15th August to look forward to.
From there we cut southeast, try to avoid larger towns like La-Roche-sur-Yon. After a few nights camping sauvage (ie not in a campsite), which is frowned on for some reason, we reached Lucon with it's impressive church spire, visable for miles across the flat marshes of the Southern Vendee.
Some 50 souless kilometers later (2 days walking) we came to a little church on the outskirts of La Rochelle which had a Salle des Pellerins and an exhibition on the Chemin de St-Jacques. This was a huge morale boost and some of the maps of the routes to Santiago were over 500 years old. Also had time for learned discussions with other pilgrims (see above).
Am setting off now for Royan (100km South) and should get there in under a week.
Love to all and a huge thanks to those of you who have sponsored my chosen charity. I have had contact with the project coordinator who says that Vocational Training Centre in Tanzania is thriving and that another is being built to widen access.
Thursday 12 July 2007
On the road again...
Finally, with foot nearly healed, we are setting off again. Nantes is a wonderful city to explore as a tourist, but strapping on the rucksack again feels like a huge relief. The next few days will be getting back into the rhythm of things, checking feet compusively and sweating out any toxins we might have acquired ;)
It will also be great to buy cheap healthy food from supermarkets rather than surviving almost exclusively on kebab and chips (about the only dish in the city we could afford).
The pilgrimage recommences at Le Pellerin (photo above) and from there we head South-East across the Vendes towards La Rochelle.
Friday night is the 14th July, so we will try to find a larger town with a campsite so that we can feel part of the fète and watch the fireworks. Vive la revolution!
It will also be great to buy cheap healthy food from supermarkets rather than surviving almost exclusively on kebab and chips (about the only dish in the city we could afford).
The pilgrimage recommences at Le Pellerin (photo above) and from there we head South-East across the Vendes towards La Rochelle.
Friday night is the 14th July, so we will try to find a larger town with a campsite so that we can feel part of the fète and watch the fireworks. Vive la revolution!
Thursday 28 June 2007
350km and something snaps...
Am writing from beautiful Nantes on the Loire river.
The journey between Brittany and Loire Atlantique saw the small rolling hills widen into sweeping vistas with larger picturesque towns such as Blain. We reached out destination on the Loire, the appropriately named Le Pellerin, three days ago, by which time my blister had gone a festering grayish colour and inflammation had swollen my ankle to elephantine proportions and redness was tracing its way up my leg towards the knee. Headed straight for the largest hospital in Nantes where the doctors seemed facinated with the situation and all wanted to prod the general area for some unknown diagnostic benefit. Finally they decided to cut open the blister, drain off the infected liquid and clean out the wound. They have put me on antibiotics, asked me to see a nurse every day for two weeks and suggested I don't walk for at least 15 days.
It's very frustrating, especially as walking becomes quite addictive as do the simple daily routines. But not ready to call it a day yet, so inshallah, we will be back on the road in a couple of weeks. Seth is patiently accepting our fate and is being supportive as ever.
Finally, in what Seth rightly describes as a damning indictment of the British educational system, we are both celebrating Firsts in our International Development degrees. A couple of glasses of unpilgrimly champagne were administered to deal with the shock of the news.
Love to all.
The journey between Brittany and Loire Atlantique saw the small rolling hills widen into sweeping vistas with larger picturesque towns such as Blain. We reached out destination on the Loire, the appropriately named Le Pellerin, three days ago, by which time my blister had gone a festering grayish colour and inflammation had swollen my ankle to elephantine proportions and redness was tracing its way up my leg towards the knee. Headed straight for the largest hospital in Nantes where the doctors seemed facinated with the situation and all wanted to prod the general area for some unknown diagnostic benefit. Finally they decided to cut open the blister, drain off the infected liquid and clean out the wound. They have put me on antibiotics, asked me to see a nurse every day for two weeks and suggested I don't walk for at least 15 days.
It's very frustrating, especially as walking becomes quite addictive as do the simple daily routines. But not ready to call it a day yet, so inshallah, we will be back on the road in a couple of weeks. Seth is patiently accepting our fate and is being supportive as ever.
Finally, in what Seth rightly describes as a damning indictment of the British educational system, we are both celebrating Firsts in our International Development degrees. A couple of glasses of unpilgrimly champagne were administered to deal with the shock of the news.
Love to all.
Monday 18 June 2007
Week 2
Rain & Blisters
We are now in the beautiful town of Maure de Bretagne and the sun has come out. The last 6 days of walking have been very wet and I have grown a blister the size of a toe. We've made reasonable progress and hope to reach the Loire by the end of next week.
The highlight of the week was being taken in by a very kind family in a village called St Thuriel. The local campsite was closed so they allowed us to camp in their garden and offered showers, a wonderful meal and great company (see our photos). The memory of their warmth and hospitality kept us going whilst tramping through driving rain, soaked to the bone with only a slimy tent to look forward to.
Have met some great characters in Brittany on the road; one old man called Alonso who was born in Compostela, and another called Dominique who has completed the Camino twice, by bike and foot. For some reason I feel these are good omens. The constant stream of road-kill less so.
Love to all.
We are now in the beautiful town of Maure de Bretagne and the sun has come out. The last 6 days of walking have been very wet and I have grown a blister the size of a toe. We've made reasonable progress and hope to reach the Loire by the end of next week.
The highlight of the week was being taken in by a very kind family in a village called St Thuriel. The local campsite was closed so they allowed us to camp in their garden and offered showers, a wonderful meal and great company (see our photos). The memory of their warmth and hospitality kept us going whilst tramping through driving rain, soaked to the bone with only a slimy tent to look forward to.
Have met some great characters in Brittany on the road; one old man called Alonso who was born in Compostela, and another called Dominique who has completed the Camino twice, by bike and foot. For some reason I feel these are good omens. The constant stream of road-kill less so.
Love to all.
Monday 11 June 2007
Week 1
Set out from Westminster Cathedral at 7.40am. The destination was Portsmouth, 130km away on the south coast.
Day 1: Left London via the Thames path/Richmond park and ended up camping on playing fields off the A3.
Day2: After a grim plod through the suburbs we made it to the M25.
Day 3: Beautiful walk through the Surrey hills to Dorking. Climbed up onto the North Downs at Leith Hill and camped looking down across the Sussex weald to the South Downs.
Day 4&5: Traversed the weald via a zigzag of footpaths and bridleways. A couple of blisters each but packs feeling comfortable. Camped on the edge of South Downs with stunning view leading down to Portsmouth and the sea. Harrassed by cows.
Day 6: Camped 10km outside Portsmouth in a park. Slept with one eye open.
Day 7: Arrived at the port Travelodge by 1pm and spent the next 2 days getting the kit combination right and giving feet a rest. Had all my hair chopped off which feels great, but is a shock to the system. A big thank you to Leanne for the free haircut.
First week was a great warm up for the 1900km ahead of us. As the days went on and muscles relaxed we began to really enjoy the walking. Only having to think about putting one foot in front of the other, where to pitch tent, and what simple meal to cook is immensly calming. Feel very lucky to have 4 months of this ahead of me.
Day 1: Left London via the Thames path/Richmond park and ended up camping on playing fields off the A3.
Day2: After a grim plod through the suburbs we made it to the M25.
Day 3: Beautiful walk through the Surrey hills to Dorking. Climbed up onto the North Downs at Leith Hill and camped looking down across the Sussex weald to the South Downs.
Day 4&5: Traversed the weald via a zigzag of footpaths and bridleways. A couple of blisters each but packs feeling comfortable. Camped on the edge of South Downs with stunning view leading down to Portsmouth and the sea. Harrassed by cows.
Day 6: Camped 10km outside Portsmouth in a park. Slept with one eye open.
Day 7: Arrived at the port Travelodge by 1pm and spent the next 2 days getting the kit combination right and giving feet a rest. Had all my hair chopped off which feels great, but is a shock to the system. A big thank you to Leanne for the free haircut.
First week was a great warm up for the 1900km ahead of us. As the days went on and muscles relaxed we began to really enjoy the walking. Only having to think about putting one foot in front of the other, where to pitch tent, and what simple meal to cook is immensly calming. Feel very lucky to have 4 months of this ahead of me.
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