Our journey down from Arcachon was more of the same; monotonous sand dunes and pine forests. Progress was complicated by an unexpected military base which added over 50 km to our route. With spirits low and our daily total averaging 15km we decided to take the most direct path to the Pyrenees and committed ourselves to 100km of road-walking in 4 days. In the event we achieved this in just 3 days including a marathon first day of over 40km.
The result was the long awaited change in landscape with the foothills of the Pyrenees giving way to the distant high peaks. After a night at a beautiful and well-run campsite in Saint-Geours-de-Maremne (thanks Andy!), we headed down to the Benedictine Monastery of L'Abbaye de Belloc. There we spent a day with the community, sharing the exquisitely sung monastic offices and hearty hot meals with the monks. A huge thank you to Pere Marc for his kind attention to us (in particular to my confused theological ramblings in bad French), and to the community as a whole for its hospitality which nourished body and soul.
Feeling as fit as we have done on the whole pilgrimage, we set out from Hasparren joined by Mark, a friend of Seth's from London, who will be breathing fresh life into our conversations for the next week. Yesterday we walked 25km over ever increasing hills and have now finally reached St Jean-Pied-de-Port, where we join the traditional pilgrimage route from France.
For many reasons it's an overwhelming feeling reaching here. Having last visited the town as a troubled hill-walking 19 yr old, and having focused on this destination with Seth for the past couple of months, it represents a significant milestone. Additionally, being surrounded by breath-taking mountains and for the first time, other pilgrims, gives the place a sense of awe and expectation. We will set out at dawn tomorrow to walk 27km, and climb over 1000 meters, to cross into Spain at the Pass of Roncevaux. The view from the Pass, down onto the Spanish plains, is said to be outstanding, and coupled with the challenge of the terrain, makes tomorrow the most anticipated of the Camino so far.
Love to all, and if anyone has had difficulty using my 'Justgiving' sponsorship page, please try again, as it should be working now.
Greg x
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