Wednesday 29 August 2007
Pamplona and the last 700km...
There just aren´t enough superlatives to do justice to the 27km, 1200m climb over the Pyrenees into Spain.
From the rapid heart-bursting 12 km ascent to 1000m giving views back over the mountains to the flatness of Le Landes, to the dehydrated joy at the ice cold waters of Fountaine de Roland by the Spanish border, from the soaring eagles and Pyrenean vultures (circling me for some reason), to the jaw-dropping 360° panorama at the Col Lepoeder with views down onto the Abbey of Roncevalles and the Spanish plains below, it was undoubtedly the highlight of the pilgrimage so far.
The Camino proper in Spain has also been a revelation. Beautiful river valley walks interspersed by historic refuges with 100 people cheek by jowl in bunk beds. Having left our tents in France we are now down to about 10kg on the back packs (from a starting weight of over 15kg) and the walking has become a real pleasure. We rise at 6am and have normally cover the days 25km by lunch, leaving us free to read and chat to fellow pilgrims in the afternoon. Blisters, back and joint pains are a thing of the past (touch wood) and if the next 700km are anything like the last 100km then the next four weeks of walking will be outstanding.
We are currently taking a day off to explore Pamplona and head off tomorrow morning towards Puente la Reina.
Love to all.
From the rapid heart-bursting 12 km ascent to 1000m giving views back over the mountains to the flatness of Le Landes, to the dehydrated joy at the ice cold waters of Fountaine de Roland by the Spanish border, from the soaring eagles and Pyrenean vultures (circling me for some reason), to the jaw-dropping 360° panorama at the Col Lepoeder with views down onto the Abbey of Roncevalles and the Spanish plains below, it was undoubtedly the highlight of the pilgrimage so far.
The Camino proper in Spain has also been a revelation. Beautiful river valley walks interspersed by historic refuges with 100 people cheek by jowl in bunk beds. Having left our tents in France we are now down to about 10kg on the back packs (from a starting weight of over 15kg) and the walking has become a real pleasure. We rise at 6am and have normally cover the days 25km by lunch, leaving us free to read and chat to fellow pilgrims in the afternoon. Blisters, back and joint pains are a thing of the past (touch wood) and if the next 700km are anything like the last 100km then the next four weeks of walking will be outstanding.
We are currently taking a day off to explore Pamplona and head off tomorrow morning towards Puente la Reina.
Love to all.
Tuesday 28 August 2007
Saturday 25 August 2007
1100km and the start of the Camino proper...
Our journey down from Arcachon was more of the same; monotonous sand dunes and pine forests. Progress was complicated by an unexpected military base which added over 50 km to our route. With spirits low and our daily total averaging 15km we decided to take the most direct path to the Pyrenees and committed ourselves to 100km of road-walking in 4 days. In the event we achieved this in just 3 days including a marathon first day of over 40km.
The result was the long awaited change in landscape with the foothills of the Pyrenees giving way to the distant high peaks. After a night at a beautiful and well-run campsite in Saint-Geours-de-Maremne (thanks Andy!), we headed down to the Benedictine Monastery of L'Abbaye de Belloc. There we spent a day with the community, sharing the exquisitely sung monastic offices and hearty hot meals with the monks. A huge thank you to Pere Marc for his kind attention to us (in particular to my confused theological ramblings in bad French), and to the community as a whole for its hospitality which nourished body and soul.
Feeling as fit as we have done on the whole pilgrimage, we set out from Hasparren joined by Mark, a friend of Seth's from London, who will be breathing fresh life into our conversations for the next week. Yesterday we walked 25km over ever increasing hills and have now finally reached St Jean-Pied-de-Port, where we join the traditional pilgrimage route from France.
For many reasons it's an overwhelming feeling reaching here. Having last visited the town as a troubled hill-walking 19 yr old, and having focused on this destination with Seth for the past couple of months, it represents a significant milestone. Additionally, being surrounded by breath-taking mountains and for the first time, other pilgrims, gives the place a sense of awe and expectation. We will set out at dawn tomorrow to walk 27km, and climb over 1000 meters, to cross into Spain at the Pass of Roncevaux. The view from the Pass, down onto the Spanish plains, is said to be outstanding, and coupled with the challenge of the terrain, makes tomorrow the most anticipated of the Camino so far.
Love to all, and if anyone has had difficulty using my 'Justgiving' sponsorship page, please try again, as it should be working now.
Greg x
The result was the long awaited change in landscape with the foothills of the Pyrenees giving way to the distant high peaks. After a night at a beautiful and well-run campsite in Saint-Geours-de-Maremne (thanks Andy!), we headed down to the Benedictine Monastery of L'Abbaye de Belloc. There we spent a day with the community, sharing the exquisitely sung monastic offices and hearty hot meals with the monks. A huge thank you to Pere Marc for his kind attention to us (in particular to my confused theological ramblings in bad French), and to the community as a whole for its hospitality which nourished body and soul.
Feeling as fit as we have done on the whole pilgrimage, we set out from Hasparren joined by Mark, a friend of Seth's from London, who will be breathing fresh life into our conversations for the next week. Yesterday we walked 25km over ever increasing hills and have now finally reached St Jean-Pied-de-Port, where we join the traditional pilgrimage route from France.
For many reasons it's an overwhelming feeling reaching here. Having last visited the town as a troubled hill-walking 19 yr old, and having focused on this destination with Seth for the past couple of months, it represents a significant milestone. Additionally, being surrounded by breath-taking mountains and for the first time, other pilgrims, gives the place a sense of awe and expectation. We will set out at dawn tomorrow to walk 27km, and climb over 1000 meters, to cross into Spain at the Pass of Roncevaux. The view from the Pass, down onto the Spanish plains, is said to be outstanding, and coupled with the challenge of the terrain, makes tomorrow the most anticipated of the Camino so far.
Love to all, and if anyone has had difficulty using my 'Justgiving' sponsorship page, please try again, as it should be working now.
Greg x
Saturday 18 August 2007
Saturday 11 August 2007
Over 800km and hurting...
We made it down to Royan in record time (4 days) but then found ourselves slowing down in the heat of the Gironde. Although we are now on a traditional Chemin de St Jaques route, which leads us due south through the pine forests, it seems harder work putting in the kiliometres now. This is partly due to the lack of differentiation in scenery, and partly because everywhere is so touristy that it feels depressing reaching another beach resort at the end of each day. Beginning to long for the Pyrenees which are only about 200km away now.
We are currently in Arcachon (further south than Bordeaux) and resting up for two days. Have bought a knee support for my left knee and Seth went to the doctor with Sciatic Nerve problems. He's been given some anti-inflammatories and thinks its already getting better. In general though we feel physically exhausted and are using our two days off to do some swimming, stretching and slobbing on the beach.
On the bright side, we managed to find free accommodation (campsites are so expensive in this region that its almost a choice of eating or camping with facilities). Out of desperation I trawled all the churches in the town for some assistance and we were eventually warmly welcomed by the Dominican Brothers who let us pitch in their garden. In addition to the soothing chants wafting from the church we also get one of the best views of the bay in town.
I miss family and friends a lot at the moment and can't wait to catch up with everyone in the autumn.
Love to all, especially Layal xx
We are currently in Arcachon (further south than Bordeaux) and resting up for two days. Have bought a knee support for my left knee and Seth went to the doctor with Sciatic Nerve problems. He's been given some anti-inflammatories and thinks its already getting better. In general though we feel physically exhausted and are using our two days off to do some swimming, stretching and slobbing on the beach.
On the bright side, we managed to find free accommodation (campsites are so expensive in this region that its almost a choice of eating or camping with facilities). Out of desperation I trawled all the churches in the town for some assistance and we were eventually warmly welcomed by the Dominican Brothers who let us pitch in their garden. In addition to the soothing chants wafting from the church we also get one of the best views of the bay in town.
I miss family and friends a lot at the moment and can't wait to catch up with everyone in the autumn.
Love to all, especially Layal xx
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