Our journey down from Arcachon was more of the same; monotonous sand dunes and pine forests. Progress was complicated by an unexpected military base which added over 50 km to our route. With spirits low and our daily total averaging 15km we decided to take the most direct path to the Pyrenees and committed ourselves to 100km of road-walking in 4 days. In the event we achieved this in just 3 days including a marathon first day of over 40km.
The result was the long awaited change in landscape with the foothills of the Pyrenees giving way to the distant high peaks. After a night at a beautiful and well-run campsite in Saint-Geours-de-Maremne (thanks Andy!), we headed down to the Benedictine Monastery of L'Abbaye de Belloc. There we spent a day with the community, sharing the exquisitely sung monastic offices and hearty hot meals with the monks. A huge thank you to Pere Marc for his kind attention to us (in particular to my confused theological ramblings in bad French), and to the community as a whole for its hospitality which nourished body and soul.
Feeling as fit as we have done on the whole pilgrimage, we set out from Hasparren joined by Mark, a friend of Seth's from London, who will be breathing fresh life into our conversations for the next week. Yesterday we walked 25km over ever increasing hills and have now finally reached St Jean-Pied-de-Port, where we join the traditional pilgrimage route from France.
For many reasons it's an overwhelming feeling reaching here. Having last visited the town as a troubled hill-walking 19 yr old, and having focused on this destination with Seth for the past couple of months, it represents a significant milestone. Additionally, being surrounded by breath-taking mountains and for the first time, other pilgrims, gives the place a sense of awe and expectation. We will set out at dawn tomorrow to walk 27km, and climb over 1000 meters, to cross into Spain at the Pass of Roncevaux. The view from the Pass, down onto the Spanish plains, is said to be outstanding, and coupled with the challenge of the terrain, makes tomorrow the most anticipated of the Camino so far.
Love to all, and if anyone has had difficulty using my 'Justgiving' sponsorship page, please try again, as it should be working now.
Greg x
Saturday, 25 August 2007
Saturday, 18 August 2007
Saturday, 11 August 2007
Over 800km and hurting...
We made it down to Royan in record time (4 days) but then found ourselves slowing down in the heat of the Gironde. Although we are now on a traditional Chemin de St Jaques route, which leads us due south through the pine forests, it seems harder work putting in the kiliometres now. This is partly due to the lack of differentiation in scenery, and partly because everywhere is so touristy that it feels depressing reaching another beach resort at the end of each day. Beginning to long for the Pyrenees which are only about 200km away now.
We are currently in Arcachon (further south than Bordeaux) and resting up for two days. Have bought a knee support for my left knee and Seth went to the doctor with Sciatic Nerve problems. He's been given some anti-inflammatories and thinks its already getting better. In general though we feel physically exhausted and are using our two days off to do some swimming, stretching and slobbing on the beach.
On the bright side, we managed to find free accommodation (campsites are so expensive in this region that its almost a choice of eating or camping with facilities). Out of desperation I trawled all the churches in the town for some assistance and we were eventually warmly welcomed by the Dominican Brothers who let us pitch in their garden. In addition to the soothing chants wafting from the church we also get one of the best views of the bay in town.
I miss family and friends a lot at the moment and can't wait to catch up with everyone in the autumn.
Love to all, especially Layal xx
We are currently in Arcachon (further south than Bordeaux) and resting up for two days. Have bought a knee support for my left knee and Seth went to the doctor with Sciatic Nerve problems. He's been given some anti-inflammatories and thinks its already getting better. In general though we feel physically exhausted and are using our two days off to do some swimming, stretching and slobbing on the beach.
On the bright side, we managed to find free accommodation (campsites are so expensive in this region that its almost a choice of eating or camping with facilities). Out of desperation I trawled all the churches in the town for some assistance and we were eventually warmly welcomed by the Dominican Brothers who let us pitch in their garden. In addition to the soothing chants wafting from the church we also get one of the best views of the bay in town.
I miss family and friends a lot at the moment and can't wait to catch up with everyone in the autumn.
Love to all, especially Layal xx
Saturday, 28 July 2007
600km and all's well...
Keeping a gentle pace for the first week after Nantes, we passed through the marshland by Lac de Grand-Lieu where there is an infestation of freshwater lobsters (crayfish). Every stream, pond and puddle was teaming and local fishermen were having a field day. I however, was distinctly unamused when all through the night the little blighters kept on popping up under my groundsheet.
At Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu we spectacularly missed the July 14th 'Storming of the Bastille' celebrations by turning up on the 14th. Apparently the fireworks and party the night before were particularly good this year. Oh well, there's always the 15th August to look forward to.
From there we cut southeast, try to avoid larger towns like La-Roche-sur-Yon. After a few nights camping sauvage (ie not in a campsite), which is frowned on for some reason, we reached Lucon with it's impressive church spire, visable for miles across the flat marshes of the Southern Vendee.
Some 50 souless kilometers later (2 days walking) we came to a little church on the outskirts of La Rochelle which had a Salle des Pellerins and an exhibition on the Chemin de St-Jacques. This was a huge morale boost and some of the maps of the routes to Santiago were over 500 years old. Also had time for learned discussions with other pilgrims (see above).
Am setting off now for Royan (100km South) and should get there in under a week.
Love to all and a huge thanks to those of you who have sponsored my chosen charity. I have had contact with the project coordinator who says that Vocational Training Centre in Tanzania is thriving and that another is being built to widen access.
At Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu we spectacularly missed the July 14th 'Storming of the Bastille' celebrations by turning up on the 14th. Apparently the fireworks and party the night before were particularly good this year. Oh well, there's always the 15th August to look forward to.
From there we cut southeast, try to avoid larger towns like La-Roche-sur-Yon. After a few nights camping sauvage (ie not in a campsite), which is frowned on for some reason, we reached Lucon with it's impressive church spire, visable for miles across the flat marshes of the Southern Vendee.
Some 50 souless kilometers later (2 days walking) we came to a little church on the outskirts of La Rochelle which had a Salle des Pellerins and an exhibition on the Chemin de St-Jacques. This was a huge morale boost and some of the maps of the routes to Santiago were over 500 years old. Also had time for learned discussions with other pilgrims (see above).
Am setting off now for Royan (100km South) and should get there in under a week.
Love to all and a huge thanks to those of you who have sponsored my chosen charity. I have had contact with the project coordinator who says that Vocational Training Centre in Tanzania is thriving and that another is being built to widen access.
Thursday, 12 July 2007
On the road again...
Finally, with foot nearly healed, we are setting off again. Nantes is a wonderful city to explore as a tourist, but strapping on the rucksack again feels like a huge relief. The next few days will be getting back into the rhythm of things, checking feet compusively and sweating out any toxins we might have acquired ;)
It will also be great to buy cheap healthy food from supermarkets rather than surviving almost exclusively on kebab and chips (about the only dish in the city we could afford).
The pilgrimage recommences at Le Pellerin (photo above) and from there we head South-East across the Vendes towards La Rochelle.
Friday night is the 14th July, so we will try to find a larger town with a campsite so that we can feel part of the fète and watch the fireworks. Vive la revolution!
It will also be great to buy cheap healthy food from supermarkets rather than surviving almost exclusively on kebab and chips (about the only dish in the city we could afford).
The pilgrimage recommences at Le Pellerin (photo above) and from there we head South-East across the Vendes towards La Rochelle.
Friday night is the 14th July, so we will try to find a larger town with a campsite so that we can feel part of the fète and watch the fireworks. Vive la revolution!
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